Tuesday 22 April 2008

The Land of a Thousand Smells

I'd be lying if I said I weren't still jet-lagged. I'm just not waking up until after 3:00am. Trina told me it took her a week to get over the jet lag, waking up about a half hour later each day. I guess I still have a few days to go. Jeremy's doing better than I am, although he was up a little before 6:00 this morning and fell asleep on the bus around 6:30 this evening. I hope it's not too hard on him, although he seems happy during the day.

Michael and Trina left for work at 7:30am, like usual. Jeremy was disappointed not to be leaving with them, and tore around the house while I washed dishes (very few, since we don't eat at home often) and shaved. At 8:30, I could contain him no longer. We went out and walked around for three hours. We started at the morning market nearest our house. For breakfast we bought a pancake sandwich with red bean paste in between. Fortunately, Jeremy saved half for me. There were fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, fresh fish (still twitching), kitchen cleavers and a few items of clothing. And lots of people. It was at least five degrees hotter in the narrow side streets that held the market, on top of the 23C at 85% humidity. We got back on to the main streets and I got a green onion oil cake for myself. Jeremy didn't really like it and, after eating half of it, I thought I should avoid that much oil early in the morning on a hot day that I plan to walk a lot.

We walked up towards Trina's school and stopped at an indoor morning market. Live chickens, fresh pork, more fish, steamed buns, fresh noodles, fruits and vegetables, sweets, fake jewelry, clothes, snacks and more. And jam packed with people. Pushing a stroller through there was a real feat, but Jeremy was very good about it. Especially after I bought him some dried mango to keep him from reaching out and grabbing things as we passed. As I wheeled Jeremy down, and ancient old man was being wheeled up in his wheel chair and he tried to get Jeremy to take his thumb out of his mouth and fold his hands in his lap. I would love if that worked, but I have very little hope.

We walked all around Trina's school past a few more of the places I used to know, before stopping at a playground for Jeremy. His shoes were still wet from the previous day, so we left them at home. And the equipment was wet. So Jeremy played in bare feet on the swings and the climber and the slide. He had a great time and I rested for about half an hour before going to pick up Michael. After lunch, we stayed in Trina's classroom (that smelled like cranberry-scented paint) and played puzzles and blocks before deciding to head out.

We decided to brave two train transfers and go up to the ShiLin night market. The market atmosphere persists through most of the day, also, but we hoped to avoid some of the worst of the crowds. Well, at the first train transfer, Michael noticed that Sogo was open and reminded us that we had promised him little sandwiches (on Sunday) and we could get them now. That's how I wish it had happened. It was more like a tantrum. We agreed that if he calmed down and asked politely, we would go. After a visit to the bakery, we went up to the top floors to see the zen garden and ride the escalator up to a catwalk-style walkway above the garden.



It had small potlights in the floor that changed colours. The boys had fun up there and also looking out the 10th floor window at the cars and people and trains way below. I know this was Michael's favourite part of the day because his prayer tonight was: Thank you that Daddy and Jeremy could come, thank you that we could play at school and outside and play and play and play and go to the garden and go way up and see the lights. Amen. Well, there were a couple more segments I couldn't make out.

Then two more trains, then off to the night market. The first stop was for chocolate "ice cream", which was actually very finely shaved ice mixed with chocolate and milk, for Michael and Daddy and a mango-flavoured one for Jeremy and Mommy (that Daddy helped finish). Michael and Jeremy ran around with some "friends" near Michael's age. It's amazing how well the kids play together, even when they don't speak the same language. The grandmother grabbed Jeremy and tried to bounce him on her knee and rub his cheeks and hands. Fortunately, he's pretty strong willed and ran off. Moving on, Michael asked for candy-covered cherry tomatoes and I couldn't say no because when will he ever get the chance outside of Taiwan? And tomatoes are healthy, right? And I spoil him.



We bought Jeremy some sandles and bought me a $7 watch and Michael a $2 watch. They run and we won't feel bad if we ruin them. Mine looks quite nice, but Michael's is way more fun, with Pikachu on it. Then we stopped in a shoe store to buy me some sandals. Michael tried on some "big boy shoes" (girls shoes) and dust mopped the store, while he was waiting.



Then we headed down the food alleys. Trina got a pancake filled with red bean (different from the breakfast ones) and I got a falafel. These were made in a small alley between two large temples burning incense. We walked past a stand smelling "stinky tofu", but weren't tempted a bit. Afterward, we noticed that the boys were getting tired (read: unmanageable) and started walking back. We let them play in a ride-on toy for a short rest (found a restroom for Michael and changed Jeremy's diaper) and then headed back home. I won't mention bathroom stories again (I hope), but changing diapers in public is almost as bad and I'll be happy when it doesn't happen again.



I was amazed Saturday night on our bus ride across ZhongXiao Rd at the sheer number of people streaming across the street while our bus waited at the light. You need to remember that everyone comes out at night because they're done work and the temperature is a little cooler (the sun is down) and because the city is just lively. It was the same leaving the night market and crossing the street back to the bus stops. The lights were set to allow people to cross both directions on both sides, as well as diagonally in the middle and the intersection was full of pedestrians. And this is fairly early on a weeknight of a regular day.

Both boys fell asleep on the way home and I can't blame them. The final smell I'm going to mention is exaust, since the city air is pretty bad, due to all the traffic. It's nice to get back to our house on the mountain with the cleaner air.

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